The Sustainability Equation: Ethics and Aesthetics in Contemporary Fashion

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Slow and Steady Wins the Race at Ethics + Aesthetics

Coming up Tuesday January 26th is a panel in conjunction with the exhibition Ethics + Aesthetics, which I co-curated at the Pratt Institute Manhattan Gallery. The panelists include Julie Gilhart, senior vice president, fashion director of Barneys New York; Mary Ping, designer and founder of Slow and Steady Wins the Race; Caroline Priebe, designer and founder of Uluru and it will be moderated by Sarah Scaturro and I

The Sustainability Equation: Ethics and Aesthetics,” will examine what constitutes sustainability within the American fashion system and will explore the sustainable fashion practices of American fashion designers including “Ethics + Aesthetics” designers Ping and Priebe.

“Ethics + Aesthetics = Sustainable Fashion” is on view now through February 20, 2010 and features work by artists and designers including Alabama Chanin, Bodkin, Loomstate, SANS, Slow and Steady Wins the Race, SUNO, and ULURU, Susan Cianciolo, Kelly Cobb, Zoë Sheehan Saldaña, and Andrea Zittel and Tiprin Follet.

A full color catalog of the exhibition will be available at a discounted price made possible by a generous grant from the Coby Foundation, Ltd. To order the catalog click here. The catalogue would include a smock pattern from Andrea Zittel’s smockshop project.

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Uluru at Ethics + Aesthetics

Francesca Granata

Below are the participants’ bios:

Julie Gilhart is senior vice president, fashion director of Barneys New York, a high-end luxury specialty store based in the United States. In spring 2007, she spearheaded the development of an all-organic collection of casual, sexy clothes that are available in every Barneys New York store in the country. She has inspired many designers to develop “sustainable” products and was instrumental in the creation of Barneys’ 2007 holiday campaign titled “Have a Green Holiday,” which focused on environmentally-conscious fashion products. Gilhart believes there is an essential need to increase awareness of the development of sustainable products and how the customer makes buying decisions. She works to instill changes in the fashion business that leave a lighter footprint on the earth and promote more conscious consumerism.

Mary Ping’s Slow and Steady Wins the Race is an experimental “laboratory” line that stemmed from a desire to dissect the fashion vocabulary and led to an exploration of patterns of consumption and brand identities. The label’s mission is to “promote and produce interesting and significant pieces from the simplest fabrics and materials.” Following a product design model, the company is intent on slowing down the fashion cycle by creating non-seasonal pieces focused on specific and fundamental characteristics of clothing design. In addition, the designs are produced in limited numbers and sold at a contained price.

The garments of Uluru’s Caroline Priebe are tightly focused for maximum ecological impact and emphasize a “less is more” philosophy. For example, Priebe’s Westlake dress has only two seams, creating a sophisticated, simple look that is reversible and has pockets. The Kathleen coat, a classic design based on her grandmother’s coat, highlights the longevity of design and its relation to personal and historical memories. The recycled cashmere sweater, adorned with appliqués hand-sewn by the workshop of Alabama Chanin, underscores the collaborative nature common to sustainable fashion.

Coming up Tuesday January 26th is a panel in conjunction with the exhibition, which I co-curated at the Pratt Institute Manhattan Gallery. The panelists include Julie Gilhart, senior vice president, fashion director of Barneys New York; Mary Ping, designer and founder of Slow and Steady Wins the Race; Caroline Priebe, designer and founder of and will be moderated by Sarah Scaturro and Francesca Granata.

Posted in Designers, Exhibitions, Lectures, Sustainable Fashion


5 Responses to “The Sustainability Equation: Ethics and Aesthetics in Contemporary Fashion”

  1. J Says:

    A bunch of new SSWTR just arrived at Shoplarousse.com. Definitely worth checking out. If you enter INDUSTRY20 at check out you can save an additional 20% off your purchase. It’s some new coupon code for fashion bloggers.

  2. Mimi Nguyen Says:

    Thank you for the heads up on the upcoming catalog! It looks like a wonderful exhibit and panel.

  3. Elisava Escuela Superior de Diseño – Máster en Fashion Design. Diseño y Moda » Blog Archive » The Sustainability Equation: Ethics and Aesthetics in Contemporary Fashion. Says:

    [...] >Read More Posted by admin Filed in Eventos, Moda FACEBOOK  |  FLICKR [...]

  4. Francesca Says:

    Thanks Mimi! If anyone is interested they can pre-order the catalogue through Pratt

  5. Gricelda Ridler Says:

    Very interesting blog post thank you for writing it I have added your website to my favorites and will check back :) By the way this is off topic but I really like your sites layout.

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Fashion Projects began in New York in 2004, with the aim to create a platform to highlight the importance of fashion — especially “experimental” fashion — within current critical discourses. Through interviews with a range of artists, designers, writers and curators, as well as through other planned projects and exhibits, we hope to foster a dialogue between theory and practice across disciplines.

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Francesca Granata
recently completed her PhD at Central Saint Martins, University of Arts London, with a focus on experimental fashion, performance and gender studies. She has previously worked as a lecturer in the visual arts department at Goldsmiths, University of London and as a fellow at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Costume Institute. She currently lectures at New York University and Parsons, as well as working as an independent curator.

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Shannon Curren (Issue #3) is a freelance graphic designer based in New York.

Jennifer Noguchi (Issues #1 and 2) is a freelance graphic designer based in New York. She has worked for several publications including Print.

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John Golding is a software developer living in San Diego.

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Shannon Bell Price
is Senior Research Associate in the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art where she has worked since 2000. Price is also pursuing her doctorate at the Bard Graduate Center.

Rizvana Bradley is completing her Ph.D. in the Literature Program at Duke University. She focuses on the ways technology is integrated into video art, dance, architecture, and concept clothing. Her writing has appeared in Hint Magazine.

Kim Burgas is a freelance web designer and artist based in New York (kimburgas.com). As a former model, she is interested in the role sustainability will play in fashion modeling in the future.

Patty Chang holds a PhD in political science from the University of Oxford. She has worked for UNDP and the UN Department for Political Affairs and is a lecturer at New York University.

Piper Carter is a New York–based photographer who for years worked as an assistant to Steven Klein. Her photographs have appeared in various publications, including British Elle and Spin.

Jessica Glasscock is a writer, college instructor and independent curator. Her first exhibition, a retrospective on Stephen Sprouse, is being presented through Deitch Projects. Her writings include the book Striptease: From Gaslight to Spotlight.

Amanda Haskins is a senior research assistant at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and is completing her master's at the Bard Graduate Center.

Cynthia Leung is a fashion writer based in New York and Berlin.

Erin Lindstrom is a graduate of the Fashion and Textile Studies program at FIT. She is currently working with the archives at Ralph Lauren.

Marco Pecorari is completing his Phd in Contemporary Fashion Theory at the Centre for Fashion Studies - Stockholm University, with a thesis entitled “The Show is not Enough: new trajectories for reading contemporary fashion”. He writes for several fashion, arts and cultural magazines.

Nicola Pietroluongo is a programmer and web developer based in Italy.

Keith Price is a photographer and graphic designer living in New York (www.pricephotostudio.com)

Lidia Ravviso is a journalist and filmmaker based in Rome.

Jay Ruttenberg is a staff writer for Time Out New York and editor of the Lowbrow Reader (www.lowbrowreader.com)

Sarah Scaturro is the textile conservator for the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum. She is researching fashionable camouflage, as well as the intersection of fashion technology and sustainability.

Tamsen Schwartzman is Associate Research Curator at The Museum at FIT, where she has curated and co-curated a number of exhibits.

Sonya Topolnisky has written about fashion and history for Montreal-based Worn fashion journal, and is currently completing her master's at the Bard Graduate Center.

Tae Yano is a software engineer. She is completing her PhD in computer Science at Carnegie Mellon.


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