Color Me Urban

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Two limited-edition hoodies from Kidrobot. Sold out, of course. Left: Spraypaint camouflage by Nico Berry. Right: A twisted version of the Louis Vuitton logo pattern by Tilt.

Today the New York Times ran an article by Ruth La Ferla on the global trend of urban streetwear. This topic is something that I’ve been thinking about a lot lately, not in the least because I actually WEAR some of what is considered urban clothing. The signifiers of streetwear – bright colors, camouflage, hoodies, puffy sneakers, baggy jeans, tracksuits, jewelry – have direct roots in the 1980s and early 1990s. And, significantly, one only has to think of Stephen Sprouse’s reinterpretation of Andy Warhol’s acid-color prints to realize that the art scene back then was a significant contributor to underground fashion.

This relationship between urban fashion and art is especially evident today, especially in the utilization of clothing as a blank canvas on which artists (many of them practicing street art) can create designs. In fact, this renewal in urban fashion is really just a part of a larger urban culture movement which includes vinyl toys, accessories, jewelry, music, books and graffiti. While there is still an anti-fashion element to today’s urban culture, it has become such a lucrative field (think of A Bathing Ape’s success) that important fashion players like Fendi, Louis Vuitton and Visionaire are angling for a slice of the action alongside companies like Stussy, Triple 5 Soul, Maharishi, and Ice Cream (Pharrell William’s label). While one might wonder about mainstream fashion’s credibility in the urban scene, it is a surprisingly symbiotic affair with limited-edition collaborations and cheeky reinterpretations of logos.

An excellent example of this interplay between fashion and anti-fashion is evident in Kidrobot’s story. Kidrobot is actually a newcomer to the urban fashion scene, only recently launching an amazingly successful apparel line. Kidrobot’s main expertise is in the creation of limited-edition toys decorated by the hippest underground artists. Word has it that the curator of a large art museum in Manhattan is an avid collector of toys from Kidrobot, and they were recently included in the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum’s Triennial as part of the best design around today. I spoke to my good friend and the manager of the Kidrobot store in Soho, James May, about Kidrobot’s success. Read what he has to say about this exploding movement after the jump.

Why did Kidrobot start producing a clothing line?

It was a natural progression. It started first with asking artists to decorate sneakers and then logically moved to apparel. We’ve actually always done t-shirts. Whether its toys, a sweatshirt or sneakers, they are all blank canvases for artists. Like other companies, many of our clothing designers are actually street artists. Our in-house designer is Maze.

What fashion designers has Kidrobot collaborated with?

Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Jil Sander, Heatherette, Dries Van Noten, Duckie Brown, Nike… The Visionaire collaboration included Karl Lagerfeld, Helmut Lang, Versace, Prada, Comme des Garçons, Viktor and Rolf, Hedi Slimane and Alexander McQueen.

Did Kidrobot approach them, or the other way around?

Both. The collaborations started about two years ago, with the end result being limited edition toys (numbering anywhere from 100 to 500) wearing designer clothing. We are being approached now by musicians, stylists and other fashion designers.

How has Kidrobot’s apparel line been received?

Since almost all products are produced in limited quantities (many have a run of 228), they all almost immediately sell out.

Who is the average Kidrobot customer?

There is no such thing. Our customers are of any age, color, male and female. Anyone can wear Kidrobot clothes or collect our toys.

Do you agree that the reason streetwear is so colorful is due to the influence of graffiti and street art?

Definitely.

Kidrobot can be found online at kidrobot.com or visit one of their retail stores in NYC, San Francisco or Los Angeles.

Sarah Scaturro

Posted in Interviews


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About Fashion Projects

Fashion Projects began in New York in 2004, with the aim to create a platform to highlight the importance of fashion — especially “experimental” fashion — within current critical discourses. Through interviews with a range of artists, designers, writers and curators, as well as through other planned projects and exhibits, we hope to foster a dialogue between theory and practice across disciplines.

We are primarily a print journal, however we also publish web-based updates and interviews (a “digest” version of which you can receive by signing up to our mailing list or via our RSS feed) and are currently working on exhibits based on past and future issues. To order any of our issues visit our ordering page.

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Editor:
Francesca Granata
recently completed her PhD at Central Saint Martins, University of Arts London, with a focus on experimental fashion, performance and gender studies. She has previously worked as a lecturer in the visual arts department at Goldsmiths, University of London and as a fellow at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Costume Institute. She currently lectures at New York University and Parsons, as well as working as an independent curator.

Art Directors:
Shannon Curren (Issue #3) is a freelance graphic designer based in New York.

Jennifer Noguchi (Issues #1 and 2) is a freelance graphic designer based in New York. She has worked for several publications including Print.

Web Design/Development:
John Golding is a software developer living in San Diego.

Writers and Photographers:

Shannon Bell Price
is Senior Research Associate in the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art where she has worked since 2000. Price is also pursuing her doctorate at the Bard Graduate Center.

Rizvana Bradley is completing her Ph.D. in the Literature Program at Duke University. She focuses on the ways technology is integrated into video art, dance, architecture, and concept clothing. Her writing has appeared in Hint Magazine.

Kim Burgas is a freelance web designer and artist based in New York (kimburgas.com). As a former model, she is interested in the role sustainability will play in fashion modeling in the future.

Patty Chang holds a PhD in political science from the University of Oxford. She has worked for UNDP and the UN Department for Political Affairs and is a lecturer at New York University.

Piper Carter is a New York–based photographer who for years worked as an assistant to Steven Klein. Her photographs have appeared in various publications, including British Elle and Spin.

Jessica Glasscock is a writer, college instructor and independent curator. Her first exhibition, a retrospective on Stephen Sprouse, is being presented through Deitch Projects. Her writings include the book Striptease: From Gaslight to Spotlight.

Amanda Haskins is a senior research assistant at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and is completing her master's at the Bard Graduate Center.

Cynthia Leung is a fashion writer based in New York and Berlin.

Erin Lindstrom is a graduate of the Fashion and Textile Studies program at FIT. She is currently working with the archives at Ralph Lauren.

Marco Pecorari is completing his Phd in Contemporary Fashion Theory at the Centre for Fashion Studies - Stockholm University, with a thesis entitled “The Show is not Enough: new trajectories for reading contemporary fashion”. He writes for several fashion, arts and cultural magazines.

Nicola Pietroluongo is a programmer and web developer based in Italy.

Keith Price is a photographer and graphic designer living in New York (www.pricephotostudio.com)

Lidia Ravviso is a journalist and filmmaker based in Rome.

Jay Ruttenberg is a staff writer for Time Out New York and editor of the Lowbrow Reader (www.lowbrowreader.com)

Sarah Scaturro is the textile conservator for the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum. She is researching fashionable camouflage, as well as the intersection of fashion technology and sustainability.

Tamsen Schwartzman is Associate Research Curator at The Museum at FIT, where she has curated and co-curated a number of exhibits.

Sonya Topolnisky has written about fashion and history for Montreal-based Worn fashion journal, and is currently completing her master's at the Bard Graduate Center.

Tae Yano is a software engineer. She is completing her PhD in computer Science at Carnegie Mellon.


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