Waist Down
/Photo from Style.com
A store may seem like an unlikely location for a fashion exhibition, but for the past several weeks the Prada Epicenter in Soho has transformed itself into a quasi-museum like environment, displaying a retrospective of Miuccia Prada’s skirts (the exhibition closes tomorrow). Stores, more specifically department stores, have a history of displaying fine art among the more quotidian purchasable goods as it was common practice in the nineteenth-century to transform a hall of commerce into a kunsthalle.
However, entering the Prada Epicenter is a bit disorienting. One’s not sure what’s on display and what’s for sale. But then again those items on “exhibition” were also for sale at on time or another. One supposes that’s the problem when the “designer who’s done more for putting women in skirts than any other contemporary designer” mounts her own retrospective. Perhaps, the exhibition would have felt less like an advertisement if other skirts from other designers were included.
But one can’t help but marvel at the sheer beauty of the displays. Skirts become artfully camouflaged wallpaper when mounted on uninterrupted yardage of the same textile. Skirts playfully twirl and kick, begging the viewer to come and pet them, something one can never do in a museum. Bug-eyed magnifying glasses emphasize tiny metal knife and fork appliqués on one skirt and crystal embroidery on another. One walks away confounded, wondering if Prada’s determination to turn clothing into exhibition-worthy art is obnoxiously pretentious or refreshing.
Sonya

Fashion Projects #5 is devoted to fashion curation, examining the meteoritic rise in relevance of fashion exhibitions.
It features interviews with an eclectic assortment of leading practitioners from different corners of the world. The issue includes long Q&As with Harold Koda, the longtime, recently retired curator of the Met’s Costume Institute, as well as the Museum at FIT’s veteran leader Valerie Steele. It also features interviews with curators in Antwerp (the ModeMuseum’s Kaat Debo), Toronto (Royal Ontario Museum’s Alexandra Palmer) and Venice (Maria Luisa Frisa); academics studying the field (Hazel Clark, Annamari Vänskä, and Alistair O’Neill); and, giving an on-the-ground perspective, the Met’s head conservator, Sarah Scaturro. The issue’s cover stars Greer Lankton’s sculptural representation of legendary Vogue editor and Costume Institute doyenne Diana Vreeland, who continues to loom over the field years after her death.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Showmanship and History: An Interview with Harold Koda by Francesca Granata
Woman of Steele: An Interview with Valerie Steele by Lisa Santandrea
Exploring Fashion’s Openness: An Interview with Kaat Debo by Alex Esculapio
London, After a Fashion Curator: An Interview with Alistair O’Neill by Alexis Romano
Curation and Conservation: An Interview with Sarah Scaturro by Mae Colburn
Reflections on Fashion Curating
An Interview with Hazel Clark and Annamari Vänskä
Fashion in the Vast Museum: An Interview with Alexandra Palmer by Ingrid Mida
Restless Curating: An Interview with Maria Luisa Frisa by Marco Pecorari