Waist Down

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Photo from Style.com

A store may seem like an unlikely location for a fashion exhibition, but for the past several weeks the Prada Epicenter in Soho has transformed itself into a quasi-museum like environment, displaying a retrospective of Miuccia Prada’s skirts (the exhibition closes tomorrow). Stores, more specifically department stores, have a history of displaying fine art among the more quotidian purchasable goods as it was common practice in the nineteenth-century to transform a hall of commerce into a kunsthalle.

However, entering the Prada Epicenter is a bit disorienting. One’s not sure what’s on display and what’s for sale. But then again those items on “exhibition” were also for sale at on time or another. One supposes that’s the problem when the “designer who’s done more for putting women in skirts than any other contemporary designer” mounts her own retrospective. Perhaps, the exhibition would have felt less like an advertisement if other skirts from other designers were included.

But one can’t help but marvel at the sheer beauty of the displays. Skirts become artfully camouflaged wallpaper when mounted on uninterrupted yardage of the same textile. Skirts playfully twirl and kick, begging the viewer to come and pet them, something one can never do in a museum. Bug-eyed magnifying glasses emphasize tiny metal knife and fork appliqués on one skirt and crystal embroidery on another. One walks away confounded, wondering if Prada’s determination to turn clothing into exhibition-worthy art is obnoxiously pretentious or refreshing.

Sonya

Research Centre for Fashion, the Body and Material Cultures

A few days ago, the Research Centre for Fashion, the Body and Material Cultures had its official launch. Opened by Central Saint Martins in conjunction with the London College of Fashion (where it is housed), the Centre draws from an array of scholars and practictioners around London and beyond through an exciting program of guest speakers and visiting artists. Speaking at the Centre’s opening was Harold Koda, curator at the Costume Institute and currently a visiting professor at Central Saint Martins. In their words, the aim of the Centre is: “Dedicated to the analysis of fashion, the body and material cultures, the Centre seeks to develop creative and theoretical work in these inter-related areas. The Centre brings together the University's internationally recognised researchers in historical and cultural studies and those working within fashion design and technology to explore the synergies and productive tensions that exist between theory and practice. “

Francesca

Sustainable Fashion

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The Symposium Terra Matter organized by Material Connexion on occasion of design week had a surprisingly large number of people discussing fashion design. Leslie Hoffman, executive director of Earth Pledge, was among the most interesting speakers, as she underlined how fashion (from textile production to clothing care) is the new and (alas, as yet unexplored) frontier in sustainable design. She announced that Earth Pledge will follow their very successful fashion show organized around the Fall/Winter 2005 New York Fashion Week (which featured an array of designers—Tess Giberson Maria Cornejo, Norma Kamali, Mary Ping) with a number of new fashion initiatives and shows offering an ever-increasing number of sustainable materials for designers’ use.

Francesca

Fashion Theory vol. 10 issue 1/2

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Talking about fashion criticism, don’t miss the current double issue of Fashion Theory (the only journal dedicated to field of fashion, which was founded in 1996 by Valerie Steele, its current editor). The latest issue (10:1/2), celebrating the journal's 10th year anniversary and guest edited by Becky Conekin and Amy de la Haye, is dedicated to the history of Vogue (from its beginning in 1892 to the present) and provides an in-depth and long overdue look at the magazine from a range of different perspectives.

Francesca

Forgotten Fashion Symposium

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L-R: Premet daysuit & Callot Soeurs daysuit, c. 1930 from Ann Bony's book, Mode des Années 30

I apologize for the deplorable lack of recent updating!

For those of you who may not know me, I’m finishing up my last semester of my last year in the Fashion and Textile Studies Master’s program at FIT. Lately, I’ve been quite busy preparing a paper I’m presenting at our annual graduate symposium which is next Saturday, May 6th.

This year’s symposium is entitled Forgotten Fashion and will include lectures on forgotten designers, fashion editors, fashion models and even forgotten fashion materials. Our keynote speaker is Clare Sauro, Assistant Curator from The Museum at FIT, who will speak about the use of cellophane as an avant-garde fashion material in the 1930s. My lecture will be on the forgotten couture house of Premet.

The event is free, along with a complimentary lunch. I invite you to attend if you can. It should be a fascinating day for those interesting in obscure fashion history and fashion in general.

11am-5pm in Seminar Room 9, D Building Fashion Institute of Technology, Seventh Avenue at 27th Street, NYC

I have many topics in mind for new posts including the upcoming Balenciaga exhibitions in Paris and in Texas. I hope to have them up next week, so please stay tuned.

Sonya Mooney